Wednesday, July 24, 2013

Simplicity 2444 and a headscarf


I have to say straight up that this is my favourite dress ever. Handmade or not it wins hands down. I adored the fabric from the moment I laid eyes on it and knew I wanted to turn it into a Simplicity 2444 even after my long drawn out battle the last time I tackled this pattern.

So let's talk about this pattern. Last time I had serious fit issues that lead me to do all crazy kinds of things to get it to vaguely fit me. This time when I made a muslin I realised that I had completely misdiagnosed the fit problems. This was both good and bad. It means that one year on my sewing and fitting has improved so much that I now get lightbulb moments when faced with things I used to consider a problem. The bad thing is that I now had different fitting problems to address.

The sole reason I struggle with this pattern (and any pattern with a fitted bodice) is because I really should learn how to do an SBA. Like really. I cheated this time (again) by making a 12 in the bodice with a size 6 above the bust so I could cut down the gapey-mcgapeness. This sorta-kinda-mostly does the job to make it looks like it fits but presents a teeny problem when the armscyes/sleeves aren't big enough (to fit over my giant bulging biceps - donchaknow?). It gives me about 80-90% normal range of motion in my shoulders/arms which I am going to quietly call a win on a really pretty dress - until I can actually address my fit issues.

I also added about 4 centimetres to the bottom of the bodice pattern so it would sit on my natural waist. Not that I have a long torso, or that I'm tall (5"2 and proud) I think this pattern is just naturally quite short.

I think it really is time for me to find a dress shape similar to this but with regular darts that are parallel up to the apex of the bust so that I can practise an SBA and have a bodice that will become a "block" for me to Frankenpattern with.


I ogled this fabric for quite some time to make sure I could get some epic print matching happening on both the front and the back. From afar the back lapped zipper is barely visible because the print is so match-matchy. Truth be told it's off by mere millimetres (which is oh so frustrating) but I think I can handle it.


Oh and I spent so much time focussing on matching the bodice I kinda ran out of fabric (just a teensy bit) on the side of the skirt pieces. So I cut out some triangles and sewed them in there like they were always meant to be. Plus they turned out match-matchy.

I loved this fabric and the resulting dress so much I made a matching headscarf. I had headscarf envy from seeing Amy rockin' one on her blog. She followed this tutorial from BlueGingerDoll and so did I.


And here I am wearing the whole ensemble proudly. Love this dress!



35 comments:

  1. I have this problem with this pattern and all others with a fitted bodice. Since the pattern fits my bust, waist and armholes, I fold out the excess fabric as a dart on the paper pattern. You first slash the dart to allow you to fold out this excess. Works a treat! Great dress and lovely fabric.

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    1. This sounds like a great solution. I may have to revisit this bodice with that in mind. Thanks for the input!

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  2. This. Is. Rad.
    It's so rewarding to see how far you have come with your sewing techniques! Such a lovely job on this :D

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    1. Thanks lady!
      It is nice when you can actually see some progress (because it feels so slow!)

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  3. lovely dress. i've just made (but not yet blogged) this pattern and i was so scared of the FBA on the waist darts. but rotated one up to bust dart, usual FBA and all good! then rotated back down. portia from Miss P has good tutorials on moving darts (and there's one in gertie's book)

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    1. Wow that sounds very technical (but great that you're confident enough to do all that).
      I think I'll still find a simple style bodice to practise on and come back to this one when I've got a bit more confidence playing around with (and moving) darts.
      But thanks so much for the suggestion, I appreciate it!

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  4. Your dress looks fabulous! Love the colour, pattern and your headscarf is really cute - lovely! :-)x

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  5. That fabric is so lovely that you could make a potato sack and it would still look good! The style of the dress is a lovely shape that shows off your waist with a bit of swish in the skirt. Surely you're not wearing this without tights and a cardigan at the moment though?

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    1. I agree - not bad for $7 a metre at my little local store!
      I've worn it twice now, both times with a coat and scarf but this particular afternoon was just warm enough to wear the dress all by itself.
      I can't wait to wear it by itself in warmer weather!

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  6. Gorgeous fabric, gorgeous you- a total winner!

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  7. Gosh I am in love with that fabric new too! Lovely outfit. I suggest you ry princess seaming a muslin from a pattern (there are a few out there) and then converting it to dart if/when you want darts instead. SO much easier to get a fit that way :)

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    1. Of course! Princess seams - that would be perfect!
      Thanks for the light bulb moment, I'll look into that.

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  8. Looks awesome. You've done a brilliant job with the fabric placement!

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    1. Thanks! It was well worth all the effort.

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  9. I love that dress on you. Just lovely. I understand how you fell in love with that fabric:)

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    1. Thank you very much.
      I do love this silhouette and I feel quite girly in it.

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  10. Lapped zippers are my weakness! And I absolutely adore your match-matchy one! Also, I think you should wear bright red lipstick with this dress!

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    1. I'm such a fan of lapped zippers!
      I practised them on scraps of fabric before ever trying them in clothes and now I'm a lot more confident.
      I was thinking I need to purchase some lipstick actually!

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  11. Awesome! I have that pattern and some navy paisley print so i really think I should go ahead and just cut it out already!!! love yours!

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    1. Yes you should!
      I'd make a muslin first but it would look gorgeous in a paisley.

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  12. Stunning dress and you have done such a great job pattern matching and it looks great on you!

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    1. Thank you!
      It will get a lot of wear this dress.

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  13. Love the fabric, and am amazed at your print matching! It's a great style on you, and the waist hits at a really flattering place thanks to your alterations. Love it :-)

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    1. Thank you! I think it will all be worth it considering how much I will be wearing it.

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  14. This looks amazing!! How cool is the headscarf?? I wear mine all the time.

    The print matching fiasco was well worth it, it's perfect. Great outfit!!

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    1. Thanks! And thank you for the headscarf envy that lead to making my own headscarf.
      They're the perfect accessory!

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  15. I love this dress. So. Much. The fabric is amazing and it fits you so well. Good for you for having the patience to go back to a pattern that frustrated you, making a muslin, and figuring out what went wrong. I don't think I could stand it!

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    1. Thanks Maggie! I wouldn't normally go back after such a bad experience but it's such a great silhouette I wanted to try again just in case I could make it work. And I mostly did, huzzah!

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  16. ADORE that fabric - absolutely gorgeous.

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    1. Thanks, it's from the fabric store right near my work.
      Not bad for a lunchbreak purchase.

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  17. Wow what amazing pattern matching at the back of your dress. Beautiful work!
    Loving the name of your blog - so funny!!

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    1. Thank you! I'm proud of my little brain sometimes.

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  18. Oh this dress is so special! Great matching and the simplicity (pardon the pun) is perfect for showing off the fabric.

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